Bern, before you book
Bern’s old town rises to 542 metres on a hill that the Aare wraps in a loop, and it has stood on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 1983. The city sits on the main Swiss rail spine that links Zurich, Basel, Geneva, Lausanne and Interlaken, so the train is the natural way in. From the station, the sandstone arcades take over almost immediately, about six kilometres of covered walkway lined with fountains, shops and vaulted cellars.
Three stretches of that hill decide where to sleep. Around Bahnhofplatz and Zeughausgasse, the old town is closest to the trains. Follow Gerechtigkeitsgasse downhill and the same sandstone arcades lead towards the Nydeggbrücke and the BearPark on the far bank. Below the old town again, the Marzili quarter sits directly on the Aare, and the Engehalbinsel, further out, sits in its own grounds away from the centre.
The hotel list runs from the Bellevue Palace, which describes itself as the official guesthouse of the Swiss government, to a youth hostel on the Aare in the Marzili quarter. Between them stand old-town houses on Zeughausgasse and Hirschengraben, and a hotel with its own jazz club on the Engehalbinsel. Our dated price samples put the youth hostel as the least expensive address in this selection, with the historic grand hotels well above it.
Bern is not a single-season city: the BearPark stays open 365 days a year, and the arcades work regardless of weather. What changes is what plays inside them. Marians Jazzroom, at the Innere Enge, runs from September to May, with two concerts a night from Tuesday to Saturday, while Restaurant Rosengarten opens its veranda for fondue only from mid-October to the end of February. Free guided tours of the Parliament Building run Tuesday to Saturday too, except while the chambers are sitting.











